Fragrance composition: the makeup of perfumes
Buying a fragrance is like buying underwear. Make a wrong choice and it will sit in your drawer as a permanent, and costly, reminder of a shopping expedition gone terribly wrong.
Navigating the perfume counters need not be a traumatic experience, however, if you follow some simple and basic rules.
Choosing your perfect fragrance
This is easier than you think once you understand the three foundations of perfume:
- the families;
- the notes; and
- dilutions.
Fragrances can be categorised into four major olfactive families: fougere (pronounced 'foo-zher') chypre, citrus and oriental.
Fougere, French for 'fern', is a fresh and woody scent. Drawing upon scents found in nature, this is a primal and lover-attracting fragrance that guarantees you attention from the opposite sex. Think Tarzan and Jane and you're on the right track as to what this scent can do for you.
Chypre, like fougere, draws upon nature based scents, however it lacks its sexy cousin's erotic appeal. This scent is perfect for leisurely weekend lunches, picnics and outdoorsy activities.
Citrus, is an underrated scent, with its critics often asking 'who wants to smell like an orange?'However, of all the scents families, it is the most often used because of its versatility. Whether you're at the gym, at work or going to a party, the fresh scent of this fragrance will leave a lasting impression.
Oriental scents are like the 'Big Daddy' of the fragrance families. Heavy in smell and designed to make an impact upon all, the use of these is best limited to formal / evening functions. People who wear these fragrances are making a big statement about who they are and what they represent. Confidence is mandatory so don't use if you are a shy wall-flower.
Notes
Once you have sprayed on a fragrance, its smell will evaporate gradually over time. The rate of evaporation, called the note, is divided into three categories:
- Top note - this is the scent you immediately smell upon application. Because these are the first impression scents, they tend to be strong and assertive. A typical example of a top note scent is citrus. However, the scent will diminish quickly, meaning you may need to reapply frequently.
- Heart note - is the scent you smell after the top note has evaporated. It's often described a as a smooth scent. Lavendar is a typical heart note scent.
- Base note - is the foundation of the scent and will be identifiable about 30 minutes after application. Many of the oriental fragrances will have strong base notes.
Perfumes' aromatic compounds are diluted in order to make them more usable and to reduce the opportunity for allergic reactions. A general rule of thumb is that, as aromatic compound decreases, the potency and longevity of the scent also declines.
There are five major dilutions in common use today:
- Perfume extract: 20%-40% aromatic compounds
- Eau de parfum: 10-30% aromatic compounds
- Eau de toilette: 5-20% aromatic compounds
- Eau de cologne: 2-3% aromatic compounds
